You Aren't Surfing If You Aren't Smiling

So I got word from a friend that waves today would be pretty fun, so I set that alarm for 6:20, and got myself ready for a fun morning in the waves

Being that I am fairly new to the surfing scene, I am still trying to ride waves to their entirety into shore, still working on standing up and steering under the crest. After an hour or so of paddling, trying to catch non-forming waves, and being crashed upon, I started to get frustrated, as any struggling athlete would.

But luckily, my friend Adam (Who is a real good shredder, ya'll) knew what to say to turn that around. He said, "You aren't surfing if you aren't smiling" and it really hit me, that if I am not enjoying the water, the waves, and the breeze, then why am I out there? God gave us this awesome thing to experience, this thing called surfing, a sport to really connect with the beauty and the force of creation.

So I will keep on heading out to take on the current, and work my way up to riding those beautiful waves into shore, smiling the whole way in

Oh, and here's a little Jack Johnson for your day!